Zabaione
My latest article is dedicated to the memory of one of one of the most important voices of the culinary world, food historian Gil Marks, and is all about an all-time Italian favorite: Zabaione!
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Zabaione
My latest article is dedicated to the memory of one of one of the most important voices of the culinary world, food historian Gil Marks, and is all about an all-time Italian favorite: Zabaione! You can subscribe to Joy of Kosher at www.joyofkosher.com/subscribe … [Read More...]
The Olive Oil Miracle
If you’re an olive oil fan, be prepared. This year has been described as “The Black Year of Italian Olive Oil,”: in Italy, the weather was truly horrible (I spent the summer there, and can testify); on top of that, there was a rare and extreme infestation of a fruit fly known as the “olive tree leprosy". The result is that the olive harvest in Italy is down 35 percent from last year, which means that we should expect to pay much more than usual for Italian olive oil, and to see even more olive oil fraud than last year — cheaper oils imported from abroad being sold as Italian, lower grades labeled extra-virgin, and worse, cut with vegetable oils that have nothing to do with olives. What’s an olive-oil lover to do? (a good idea, of course, would be trying oils from Greece and those countries unaffected by the issue). If you believe in miracles, you can also pray that your stack will last eight times as long as it normally would, much like in the story of Hanukkah. An eternal … [Read More...]
Homemade Flavored Pasta and the King of Italian Herbs
In the current issue of Joy of Kosher, check out my articles on fancy homemade pastas and on the king of Italian herbs: basil! … [Read More...]
Chocolate Cream and Strawberry Frozen Delight
I'm pretty sure I've already told you that every year, comes May, I feel quite conflicted between my desire to eat more fresh fruit, vegetables and light fare, and all the temptations of Mother's Day, my birthday, and Shavuot - plus dozens more excuses…. (just to give you a couple of examples, last year I indulged in a pink meringue cake and a pistachio and cream Swiss roll). [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:158] An InLinkz Link-up … [Read More...]
Warm Radicchio Salad with Red Onion and Dates
After one of the longest winters that I can remember, it felt quite exciting to finally put all my winter gear in storage and switch to easy tee shirts and jersey dresses. There was, however, one downside - all the cream, cheese and butter-laden recipes I'd been posting to help you brave the elements, had left a couple of unwanted inches around my waist . Time to go easy on the béchamel, pasta and desserts for a week or so! Today, I am treating myself to a salad made with red radicchio (probably my favorite leafy vegetable). and the exotic addition of Medjool dates to temper its slight bitterness. Let me know what you think! [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:157] … [Read More...]
Bianca’s Super Veggie Medley
My 5-year old loves Brussels sprouts and broccoli, and this is her favorite way to eat them! It's so delicious that I thought I'd also share it with you guys. After all the cheesy pasta dishes I posted this winter, I really owed you a recipe with some vitamins and fiber….. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:156] … [Read More...]
MORE ITALIAN PASSOVER IDEAS
Hello again! I'm so excited to share that my Levornese Almond Custards (Scodelline) are in the April 2014 issue of Cucinare Bene magazine, a special Italian Passover treat among tons of Easter treats (in Italian! But for all the English speakers, I had already posted this recipe here, last year). I am also in the new Spring issue of Joy of Kosher magazine, with a feature on Cooking with Wine, where I really tried to crunch in everything you need to know about the topic, from techniques, tips, substitutions and recipes, to cool wine gadgets! … [Read More...]
Warm Farro Salad with Cranberry Beans and Red Beet Mousse
I think I already told you that I don't mind a little extra padding in the winter: it's way more practical than having to wear an extra puffer coat, and gives me a great excuse to overindulge in cheesy dishes. However, I've lost count of all the snowstorms we've had this year, and maybe - just maybe - I'll start wiggling my way out of hibernation. This morning I even made it to a workout class, and no cheese tonight! [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:155] … [Read More...]
Italian Chocolate Kisses
My latest article is all about kisses…. the chocolate kind! With a recipe for an easy home-made treat (perfect for Valentines with a sweet tooth!): read it here … [Read More...]
Pressure Cookers and Slow Cookers
In the new issue of JOK Magazine, the third chapter of my series on Pots and Pans deals with what I once considered two diabolical appliances: Pressure Cookers and Slow Cookers! Tips, tricks, and tidbits of their curious history… by the way, this is what many consider the progenitor of our modern pressure cooker, invented by Denis Papin in France in the 1670s: … [Read More...]
Fruity Nutty Tree Day Bread
Our kitchen and dining room overlook a lovely garden, with a couple of old trees where lots of adorable little squirrels have made their nest. Every now and then, a big, bushy gray tail pops up on one of the windows, a sign that they are watching us and wondering if what we are putting on the table is more or less interesting than their usual fare. This week our little fuzzy friends might be paying us more visits: the ingredients I laid out to bake for Tu' Bishvat are an irresistible attraction. In the Jewish Tradition, Tu' Bishvat may be technically a minor holiday, but its special eco-message that we should connect with God through nature resonates very deeply with many of us. Many people celebrate this special "Birthday of the Trees" eating dried fruits and nuts, particularly those associated with the Promised Land! A kabbalistic tradition teaches that eating three different types of fruits creates a mystical connection with the Tree of life from the Garden of Eden. The first … [Read More...]
Big Chill Cheese Fondue
After last week's snow storm, and Tuesday's record temperatures (we hit a record low of 4 degrees Farenheit or -15 C here in New York City), several friends emailed us or called us from Italy expressing concern for our safety and comfort. We loved the attention, but don't worry…. we are a tough breed! (here is what we have been doing:) Of course, after a couple of hours of frozen fun at the park, we headed home to warm up by the fireplace ! In most families,a nice cup of hot chocolate with marshmallows would be in order. But my 7-year-old is the kind of kid who, asked by a friend's mom at snack time: "Do you eat parmesan cheese?" replied: "Would you mind cutting it into shavings and add honey and pears on the side?". So here is what we settled on. My Italian fondue recipe hails from Valle d'Aosta, the smallest of all Italian regions, but dominated by two of Europe's top peaks—Monte Bianco (aka Mont Blanc) and Monte Cervino (aka the Matterhorn) on its borders with France and … [Read More...]
Xmas-Envy Panettone Trifle
Every winter, when new York City (or Venice) seems to turn overnight into one giant display of dazzling Christmas ornaments, it's hard for those of other religious denominations not to feel at least a tinge of Christmas envy! I decided to embrace it, by making a mean Panettone Trifle, and writing about it on this week's Jewish Week. (read) … [Read More...]
Gift-Wrapped Risotto
I'm not sure if I've made it clear yet, but I am somewhat obsessed with saffron. It started when I was about 10 and read somewhere that in ancient Persia, saffron threads were woven into royal textiles, and ritually offered to divinities. The fact that Gualtiero Marchesi, the star Italian chef of those years, was pairing it with real gold leaves in his signature risottos, just added to the mystique, as did the fact that it takes thousands of flowers and many hours of labor to gather together just a pound of stems. This sounded so special to me, so classy, that one of the first dishes I learned to make on my own and would treat my friends to in junior high, was the traditional Risotto Milanese. My experiments did not end here, unfortunately. As a teen-ager, I even tried using a saffron infusion as a face toner, to give my skin a beautiful golden tint. While this is said to have worked wonders for Cleopatra, the only result I obtained was that my then-crush asked me if I had jaundice … [Read More...]
Symbols of Plenty – Symbols of Tears
The Thanksgiving table is exquisitely symbolic. Aside from pumpkin, and of course turkey, which clearly represent bounty, some other harvest symbols are fraught with ambiguities - and not only in American culture. Read about them in my latest column for the Jewish Week: … [Read More...]
Venetian Thanksgivukkah Fritters
With all the hype about Thanksgivukkah this year, I also received a challenge to post something that would be perfect for both Thanksgiving and Hanukkah - and it had to be made with some type of mashed food. I normally panic when I get this kind of requests, but this time it was really brainless. These pumpkin fritters are one of my favorite recipes, and always a huge hit with guests. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:151] … [Read More...]
Butternut Squash and Zucchini Frittata
This month my article in Joy of Kosher magazine reveals the secrets of cooking with cast iron, and carbon steel: Cast iron is one of my favorites because it lasts forever (unless you drop it, in which case it will break - along with your foot). [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:149]It also has a way of enhancing rustic flavors, and it's perfect for eggs! … [Read More...]
Bittersweet Manicotti with Moscato Wine Sauce
This October my column in the Jewish Week featured a recipe for butternut squash manicotti with goat cheese and pumpkin. But there are so many versions of these, that I couldn't resist posting one more! After all, for the past few weeks, I've been in a pumpkin frenzy. This time, I also added red radicchio, and a touch of Moscato wine. The result is slightly bitter, slightly sweet; buttery, creamy, and totally worth the splurge. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:148] … [Read More...]
Cous Cous salad with red Radicchio and Pomegranate
Cous cous is probably not the first dish that most of you will associate with Italy. However, if you look at a map, you'll notice that Southern Sicily is not that far from North Africa, and the locals have been enjoying this type of semolina preparation since Roman times. Much farther North, on the coast of Tuscany, in the sea port of Livorno, "Cuscussu' " is also a favorite: first introduced by the Jewish merchants, who had ties in North Africa, it slowly spread to the rest of the population. Not to mention the Sardinian version, Fregola: tiny 2-mm balls of semolina dough that have been toasted in the oven before being boiled like pasta. Let's toast to "fusion" with this easy salad, which surprisingly pairs cous cous with a staple of my region, Veneto: red radicchio! [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:147] … [Read More...]
Jewish Pumpkin Treats
This month I really spaced and forgot to post my recipe for my friends' Linkup! Ops! The theme is "Spread The Joy", because everybody loves receiving home-made goodies. Enjoy these easy Jewish Italian Pumpkin (or butternut squash) treats: an old Jewish italian recipe perfect for this season! [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:146] An InLinkz Link-up … [Read More...]
Bruscadela – Bread and Wine Trifle
At the end of Yom Kippur there is a widespread custom to break the fast joyously, since a Midrash (Jewish homiletic story) describes a heavenly voice speaking at the end of the fast with these words from Ecclesiastes: "Go thy way, eat thy bread with joy, and drink thy wine ....." (Kohelet Rabbah 9:7). The Jews of Piedmont, Italy, take this quite literally! Find out how in my new article for The Jewish daily Forward … [Read More...]
Lost Tribes and Tables Regained
My monthly column in the Jewish Week this month deals with how tradition mixes with innovation, when a "lost" Jewish tribe decides to return to Judaism... what will they make for Rosh HaShana? http://www.thejewishweek.com/food-wine/eating/recipes/lost-tribes-and-tables-regained … [Read More...]
Ancient Pots for Modern Cooks
In the new Fall issue of Joy of Kosher Magazine (pages 33-37) you will find my new article on "Ancient Pots for modern Flavors", and a possible answer to why your grandma's food always tasted best and you were never quite able to replicate it.... and this month, you can get this issue of Joy of Kosher Magazine for FREE , to read on your iPad: http://www.joyofkosher.com/2013/08/free-issue-of-joy-of-kosher-magazine-now-on-your-ipad/ … [Read More...]
Pasta salad with Egg, Radishes and Mache’
Nothing in the kitchen spells summer and vacation for me the way cold rice and pasta dishes do. I grew up with no air conditioning in the kitchen and dining room: to survive the summer, we resorted to a an endless variety of dishes that can be served cold or at room temperature. Pasta salads were always my favorite (and I just wrote about them in my monthly column for The Jewish Week NY), because they can easily be packed and eaten outdoors. Meet me in Central Park! [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:145] … [Read More...]
Ally’s Ciambellini with Wine and Olive Oil
It's not only that I happen to love this particular cookie recipe (which I often make myself in a slightly different version including red wine and fennel seeds) - Alice also picked the best possible time to contribute to Dinner In Venice! I'm taking a short family vacation and this guest post means: "YAY! More play time with the kids". While Allie is not Italian herself, her trademark cuisine, showcased in her addictive blog Ally's Kitchen, is simple but sophisticated, a perfect balance of flavors - qualities that many identify with contemporary Italian taste. Her dishes are eclectic and show many different cultural influences, but this time she is actually taking us on a virtual trip to Central Italy...... ALLY SAYS: Italian roots run deep in my life—married first time around to a D’Antoni, I was very influenced in my culinary growth in early years by being in the family. With three sons who could eat you out of house and home, some of their favorite dishes were all … [Read More...]
Ricotta
My article in the current issue of Joy of Kosher magazine : the history of ricotta-making and a few easy, yummy, low-fat recipes - from dumplings, to a savory farro cake, and a decadent espresso semifreddo... … [Read More...]
Strawberries in Love
In case you haven't noticed, I'm taking a little blogging break to recharge my creative batteries and spend some quality time with my family. That also means sticking to the basics in the kitchen. However, basic doesn't have to be boring. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:142] … [Read More...]
Quick Pipe Pasta with Swiss Chard
Don't get me started. I'll just mention that when the doctor heard how I got injured, he laughed. I'll spare you the gory details, but it involved an epic fight with the mini-blender blade falling into the stand mixer bowl (in action), AND the unlocked dishwasher door. In case you ever wondered why I don't teach knife skills demos. Today, the saga continues with water flooding our building through the upstairs neighbor's apartment. I hope I'm forgiven if I post this recipe without a proper intro! To cheer me up, feel free to share your most surreal kitchen accidents in the comment box. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:141] … [Read More...]
Strawberry Risotto Straight From the Eighties
All of us have dishes we have always loved. And then there are flavors that we learn how to love, later in life. Finally, those that we appreciate because they remind us of when we were young, and/or in love. As an Italian teenager in the Eighties, trying to fit in (shoulder pads and all), I had a hard time getting used to the new food trends that we were importing from the US, such as burgers and club sandwiches. I would have traded any Panini for a bowl of my nonna’s ribollita soup! As to the other culinary movement that was going on – namely, the spread of Nouvelle Cuisine from France to Northern Italy – I was too young and poor to experience it! I did hear about it, of course. I was aware of its most cultured and creative representative, Gualtiero Marchesi, and of all the copycats who tried to get on board by simply sticking kiwi, vodka and arugola into everything. But all my student budget allowed me to eat out was lots of arugola pizza! The surprises of the new cuisine … [Read More...]
Fregolotta – Giant Italian Crumb Cookie
The episode of the madeleine in Marcel Proust's epic novel In Search of Lost Time is probably the most famous example in Western literature of how a particular flavor can elicit a stream of rich and intimate memories. Even those of you not particularly familiar with French literature will remember the basic outline: the grownup narrator dips a cookie in tea, which causes him to reminisce so intensely about childhood afternoons at his aunt's home, that he follows with 3,000 pages of such fond memories. Of course you don’t need to be French to have a favorite childhood sweet. Yours could as well be brownies; while for many Northern Italians in my generation, the cliché cookie is actually a giant crumble, as big as a cake. Whether home-baked or packaged in its distinctive clear wrapping, this is what I fought over with my dad, to the point that we would each lock up our half, to protect it from the other’s attacks. This is what I munched on with my friend Rachele on countless … [Read More...]
Summer Cherry Salad
May 22. When I was a child, the end of May marked the beginning of cherry-picking season in Italy, and for the next month or so I could often be found doing my homework with a big bowl of juicy fruit in my lap, and a few red stains on my books . The decadence of sucking on the cherries is counterbalanced by the zen quality of spitting the pits into a saucer. Ciliegie are the perfect, meditative snack: "una tira l'altra" (one pulls the other, you just can't stop eating them) - that's also true of potato chips, by the way, but potato chips aren't being touted as the next "superfood". Cherries are actually so good for you that they are now being marketed in the form of capsules. I find that a bit ridiculous: wouldn't you rather stick them into a pie? At least dip them into white chocolate? Or, if you are being truly virtuous, how about using them for a colorful salad? [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:137] … [Read More...]
Silvia Colloca’s Pumpkin Seed Rolls
We all have weaknesses. One of mine is that I tend to be quite impatient. That's why, even though I adore homemade bread, I'm not going to babysit that dough for several hours! Enter this week's guest, Silvia Colloca, my go-to expert (the other one is Vittorio of Viva la Focaccia) when it comes to bread making, including tips on cutting corners and reducing the waiting time. Silvia is hands-down one of the best Italian food bloggers out there: on Silvia's Cucina, she shares lots of tasty, easy, healthy Italian recipes that she learned growing up in Milan from her mom and grandma. Just FYI, Silvia is also a successful movie and theater actress and mezzo soprano opera singer, trained at the prestigious music academy of Milan. For the past ten years, she has been married to one of the most beloved Australian actors, producers (and heart-throbs), Richard Roxburgh, and living in Sydney, where they are raising their adorable sons. Silvia somehow manages to do all of the above with … [Read More...]
Pistachio and Cream Swiss Roll
This week my family and I will observe one of my favorite holiday traditions, that of indulging in creamy dairy treats for the Jewish holiday of Shavuot. After all, who am I to say no to extra helpings of lasagna and tiramisu, especially when our sages encourage me? Another custom typical of Shavuot (and Simchat Torah) is eating preparations that are rolled, a visual reminder of the Torah scrolls that are read in synagogue. It may be a no-brainer to celebrate by smothering your dishes in butter and cream; however, rolling up foods can be challenging for inexperienced cooks. Take cake rolls, and raise your hand if you don't end up buying the pre-packaged version rather than risking a disaster. The truth is that, if you follow instructions, these guys are not that hard to make. Just don’t cheat on the pan: the only type that works is a jelly roll pan (usually a 15x10x1-inch pan, regular or disposable). This is also the kind of recipe that you don’t want to attempt if you have … [Read More...]
Strawberry and Prosecco Tiramisu
Tiramisu is said to have appeared for the first time at a restaurant in the Veneto region in the 1970's, and has quickly become a world-renowned specialty. Tiramisu is a non-denominational dessert: who wouldn't want to eat it? Everybody can find a good excuse. For us Jews, for example, it's the perfect Shavuot treat: layers of mascarpone cream to remind us of the sweetness of Torah, and several shots of espresso to get us through the night of learning (Tiramisu means "pick me up" in Italian!). Or what about Mother's day? You could surprise her with something girly and new, replacing the traditional coffee with sparkling wine and adding juicy strawberries: welcome spring! Ingredients: 2 cups (about 1 lb) mascarpone 1/2 pint whipping cream (makes about 1 1/2 cups whipped) 4 eggs* 26 Italian ladyfingers (savoiardi) 1/2 cup sugar (or more to taste) 1 1/2 lb strawberries 1 1/2 cups Prosecco or champagne (for kids, use Kedem sparkling grape juice) Mint and small meringues to … [Read More...]
Raspberry Cake with Whipped Cream and Pink Meringues
In some areas of Central Italy, there is still a custom of going from house to house adorned with garlands on the first night of May, playing and singing merry tunes to welcome the warm season. I’m bringing this up - kind of randomly - because this morning I woke up with a verse stuck in my head: it’s from an Italian children’s poem about the months of the year that I learned in kindergarten, and the part about May goes “Maggio di canti risuona” (May resonates with songs). While I’m not the type to go around the neighborhood with a lute serenading strangers (my fellow Manhattanites would call the police), I am all for celebrating this beautiful month, which I associate with a variety of pleasant concepts. At last, the sun is out, the bees are buzzing, the birds are chirping, and the flowers in Central Park are blooming…. but not only that: at the risk of sounding very self-involved, I'm excited because my birthday and Mother’s day also come this month. I'm not sure about … [Read More...]
Silvia’s Fennel and Red Onion Gratin
Today I have a special surprise for you: I am quite thrilled to introduce you to my friend Silvia Nacamulli. Silvia, who grew up in Rome, is a fellow foodie, who learned all her tricks from three generations of talented Jewish nonnas. In London, where she lives with her husband and adorable daughters, she runs the successful cooking school La Cucina di Silvia - Cooking for the Soul, and caters very chic private parties (so chic, in fact, that she was featured in Elle magazine). However, Silvia is probably most famous for her culinary vacations in Italy (she is now getting ready for the next one, coming up in June), during which English-speaking Italophiles from all over the world learn how to cook a variety of Italian, and Jewish Italian dishes while relaxing in the gorgeous setting of Relais Nature La Tenuta dei Ciclamini. City-dwellers, in particular, can't get enough of the all-encompassing food experience that Silvia offers beyond the cooking lessons, including truffle … [Read More...]
Spring Fling Pizza
The arrival of spring always inspires me to check out the neighborhood's farmers' markets and even community gardens in the quest for culinary ideas. After my FreshDirect-fueled winter hibernation, I crave flavors and colors beyond the boundaries of the chain grocery stores. I'm embarrassed to admit that when I find anything new, or that I haven't cooked in a long time, I simply stick it into a pizza or a calzone - at least the first time. The reason is very practical: my kids will eat positively anything if it's deep-fried, or in the form of a pizza topping. For the past two weeks, I've been on what my husband has deemed a "weed-spree": no, that's not what you think - I'm just referring to edible plants and herbs that sprout literally everywhere, on the side of the street and in your backyard; but while they are highly prized in Italian and French cuisine, here in the US most people never take advantage of them. Growing up in Italy, I tried countless recipes with edible weeds. My … [Read More...]
Puff Slices with Dandelion Greens and Cheese
This week, the nice weather inspired me to check out my neighborhood "community gardens", and I found a few fun things to cook with. Of course, if you live in the suburbs, you might already have a lot of these interesting greens growing in your own property.When it comes to that stubborn backyard weed... why kill them when you can eat them? Dandelion greens, for example. They make a great addition to a salad, but you can also try something fancier. They pair perfectly with cheese. Make sure they are not treated with toxic chemicals. And stay tuned - more "weed" coming soon! Next is borage..... [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:130] … [Read More...]
Zucchini Flower and Strawberry Savory Tart
Seven years ago, when I was planning my wedding and the florist asked me what I would like to put in my bouquet, I joked that my favorite flowers are those that I can eat. If I ever end up stranded on a desert island with only one food, I hope it's artichokes! Second in my top-ten list of edible flowers are zucchini and squash blossoms. They are gorgeous and ethereal (back to that wedding bouquet idea!), and quite popular in the cuisines of the Eastern Mediterranean, from Greece to Turkey and, of course, Italy. Here in the US they used to be pretty hard to find, but lately I have seen them at farmers’ markets and large organic supermarkets, and don't think I've ever been able to pass them up. When I was growing up, my mom would serve them as a special treat stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies and then battered and fried. That's probably still my favorite way to enjoy them, but I can see how some of you would prefer something lighter, and quicker. Zucchini flowers (actually, any … [Read More...]
Grilled Vegetable Chicken Salad
“Interesting” salads are not exactly what Italian food is famous for, I know. However, some time in the 1980es, when I was a high school student, many firms and stores in Italy gave up the traditional long midday break, and large salads with more than just vegetables started popping up in the local trattorias as a quick and healthy lunch option. The other day I posted instructions for grilling vegetables, and since these keep so well I couldn’t resist giving you an idea of what you could do with them, besides serving them as a side. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:127] … [Read More...]
Italian Grilled Vegetables
After almost twenty years in America, I have come to terms with the fact that here barbecue is an expression of national pride. Barbecue expresses American identity through food as accurately as jazz does through music. It’s simple, honest, and… manly. I ’ve come to love it. However, to stay true to my origins, I always make room on the grill for some vegetables! Italians (with the exception of Tuscany) are not so big on barbecuing meat, but grilling is a favorite cooking method for everything else! Besides the obvious advantage of being quick and easy, it preserves most of the ingredients’ nutritional qualities while enhancing their flavor. The secret of a good vegetable “barbecue” is the grilling temperature, which needs to be inversely proportional to the size/thickness of the food: the thinner pieces should be grilled quickly on high heat, and the thicker/larger ones should be cooked more slowly on lower heat. We don’t usually marinate the vegetables before grilling. In order to … [Read More...]
Italian Lamb Fricassee
In French, the term Fricassee refers to some kind of stew, usually with a white sauce, in which cut-up meat is first sauteed and then slow-cooked with the addition of liquid. However, ask any Italian (or Greek!) and they will tell you that to them "fricassea" is any type of meat or poultry served in a traditional egg-lemon sauce. The Tuscan side of my family used to make this sauce to recycle meat (usually veal) that had already been boiled. We would make soup with the broth, serve the meat boiled with a side of green sauce, and the next day we would turn the leftovers into a creamy egg-lemon fricassea. There are several regional versions of this quick and easy recipe, some made with chicken and others with a mix of different types of meat, including liver. In Rome, however, the ingredient of choice is lamb, a symbol of the spring holidays (whether you choose to celebrate Easter or Passover), often with the addition of seasonal vegetables, such as baby artichokes. Serve accompanied … [Read More...]
Passover Almond Custards – Scodelline
While eating matzah (unleavened bread) during Passover is a commandment, eating too much of it could turn into a curse. I won’t go into details here, but by the time you serve dessert at the end of the seder, you will be praying for a break. I will always be thankful for the fact that most Italian Passover sweets are not made with matzah meal (ground matzah). These lovely almond custards from Leghorn, in Tuscany, are called “Scodelline” (little bowls) or “Tazzine” (little coffee cups) because of how they are served in individual portions. They are small and elegant, just what you need to end a holiday meal on a sweet note without overdoing it. They are also gluten-free, and easy to prepare with wholesome ingredients (isn't it nice, when you are having all this sugar, to know that there is something nutritious mixed with it, like almond and eggs?) The Jews of Leghorn, drawing from their Spanish-Portuguese origins, make several interesting sweets with these, including the elaborate … [Read More...]
Sweet-and-Sour Seder Carrots
Passover, or Pesach in Hebrew, is an eight-day (seven in Israel) holiday that celebrates freedom, by retelling the story of the ancient Israelites’ liberation from Egypt. Special symbolic foods are arranged on the seder table, and we read out loud the haggadah, a book that tells the story of the exodus. One of the main goals of having a seder is teaching children about the exodus, encouraging questions from them in the hope that they will learn to appreciate (and fight for - my father would add) the gift of freedom. It's not that hard to keep kids interested and involved, as this is one of the rare occasions when they are allowed to stay up REALLY late at night, which in itself feels like a big deal to the young ones. However, if a family seder with a couple of cousins can be fun, a whole community seder with a couple of hundred people and a bunch of kids of different ages can be a total blast, and if you ever visit Venice for Passover and make sure to reserve a spot on time, you will … [Read More...]
Naughty Potato Chocolate Budino
I can’t claim to have ever been the “meat and potato” type in the classic sense – someone who prefers them to vegetables, or even fools herself into thinking they are one. No, thank you: as a side, I’d much rather have something very green, such as artichokes, or kale . However, I’m obsessed with potatoes as the main ingredient in more elaborate dishes: from gnocchi to pancakes, from croquettes to breads, and especially desserts. In our carb-phobic day and age, potatoes have been accused of being too starchy, but that’s exactly what makes them so perfect for breads and cakes: yeast thrives on these starches, and the end result is a baked good with a light, fluffy, and yet moist texture. Not that I was always so particular about texture – I have to confess that my fondest memory of a potato “dessert” is actually a concoction much less refined than what I enjoy now. I was probably in 6th grade and it was a lazy winter afternoon, doing homework at my friend Rachele’s house, when her … [Read More...]
Bocca di dama with Orange Caramel
Whenever I bite into this delicious almond cake, I can’t help but wonder about the origins of its name: Bocca di Dama means “Lady’s Mouth” in Italian. Was a romantic baker in love with a beautiful customer? Or is the cake so sweet, soft and moist that it reminded someone of a passionate kiss? This Passover dessert, popular among the Jews of Leghorn and in several other Sephardic communities, is so ancient that nobody really knows. The only thing that’s certain is that, just like kisses, it’s highly addictive, and you probably won’t be able to stop at the first bite. Don’t say I didn’t warn you: if it’s just you, and the cake, you are set for failure. Surround yourself with lots of guests. My husband once made the whole thing disappear overnight. In this version, the tanginess of orange complements the mild and buttery texture and flavor of the almonds: use organic fruit for the best results. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:120] … [Read More...]
Farro Salad with Pears and Cheese
Farro is a "cousin" of spelt, and a grain so ancient that it is said to have sustained the Roman legions with its nutty flavor, chewy texture, and high fiber, vitamin, and protein content. When I was growing up my mom would always bring back some from our visits to Nonna in Tuscany. Our friends in Venice would taste her soups or cakes with a combination of curiosity and suspicion: at the time, in fact, farro was used only in a few Italian regions, and mostly in peasant dishes. By the way, these are the same friends who were puzzled by her use of olive oil, which they considered a heavier and less healthy alternative to butter or margarine! In more recent years, however, farro has made it onto the chic tables of all northern Italy , and even to the United States, where it flies off the shelves of gourmet grocery stores such as Zabar's and Citarella's. [amd-zlrecipe-recipe:119] More with Farro: My Chestnut & Farro Soup NYT's Farrotto with Mushrooms Lucullian … [Read More...]
Artichoke Sformatini
Behind a tough, thorny covering, the artichoke hides a tender and fragrant heart. Through the centuries, this contrast has inspired a number of literary productions, from Greek legends to contemporary poetry. And with all due respect to my Israeli friends, the artichoke’s reputation in this sense even precedes that of the “Sabra”! While we think of the artichoke as a vegetable, it is technically the edible and tasty bud of a flower, which makes it even more romantic – not to mention the satisfaction of finally eating something that it took us two hours and a couple of knife accidents to clean. In Italy, we are all notoriously obsessed with local food, and we all insist that our particular regional variety is the best (note to my Roman friends: please don't even bother to comment and criticize under this post, our differences on the topic can not be reconciled!). Italian Jews like me are possibly even more passionate than the others about this topic, given that until at least the … [Read More...]
Crespelle with Asparagus
This post is very special: it’s a virtual wedding surprise for a young and talented food blogger, Ali (check out her yummy recipes on AliBabka), who just tied the knot with her lucky and well-fed Matan yesterday. A Jewish wedding is not complete without 7 special blessings over the couple (Sheva Brachot). At the ceremony, they are recited by friends and family members first under the chuppa (wedding canopy) before the breaking of the glass, and then again after the meal. Among more traditional Jews, the Sheva Berachot are recited again for the whole week following the wedding, at festive meals that friends and family of the couple take turns throwing in their honor every night. While it’s impossible not to pack on a couple of extra pounds, and the honeymoon needs to be postponed, many Jewish couples remember the week of Sheva Berachot with more affection than the wedding itself, simply because it’s so nice to be cared for and pampered by the ones we love! In this spirit, a … [Read More...]
