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Kosher goose is nowadays only available in the US and in Italy through a few select butchers, or only at certain times of the year. But just a few centuries ago, starting in the Middle Ages and continuing through the Renaissance, goose had become the main source of meat for most Jewish communities in Western Europe, from German-speaking countries to the Italian peninsula. Goose was to the Jews what pork was to Christians: where the Gentiles used lard, the Jews cooked with goose fat; the meat was eaten roasted and stuffed or used to prepare sausages, salamis and kosher “prosciutto“. It was the “Kosher Pig”!
Several versions of this dish are still a popular Rosh HaShana main course in different Italian cities, of course only those years when we can get our hands on a goose.
(A widespread variation is a turkey meatloaf enclosed in the turkey skin, which I will add later.)
On a personal note, while I’m obsessed with this recipe, I am not going to serve it for Rosh HaShana this year, because the last time my husband (who is squirmy about meat in general) saw me stitch the neck with the trussing needle, he went 100% vegan for two weeks.
Ingredients
- The skin of one goose neck
- 1 and 1/2 lb ground goose meat
- 1 medium onion, very finely chopped
- 1 egg
- 2 small day-old rolls, crusts removed (or 2 slices bread, crusts removed) and cubed
- 1 or 2 tablespoons bread crumbs
- chicken or meat broth
- 1 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley
- 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg or allspice (if liked)
- 6 very thin slices Hungarian salami (or goose “prosciutto“)
- salt and pepper to taste
- extra-virgin olive oil
Directions
Soak the bread in 1/2 cup of broth.
In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil and cook the onion until soft, adding one or two tablespoons of water if necessary to prevent it from sticking or burning.
Allow the onion to cool down, discard any liquid or oil (you can place it in a cheesecloth or large piece of paper towel and squeeze the liquid out into your sink).
Also drain as much liquid as possible out of the bread, squeezing it well.
Now place the onion and bread in a large bowl and add the ground meat, egg, parsley, spices, salt and pepper and 1 or 2 tablespoons of bread crumbs, or just enough to give the stuffing the right texture (you can always add more later).
Combine everything together, mixing gently but thoroughly; on the other hand, don’t overdo it: it’s not Challa! My grandmother used to say that meatloaves and meatballs come out too hard if you handle the meat for longer than necessary.
Use this stuffing to fill the neck of the goose (yikes, I know), previously lined with some thin salami slices. It’s easiest with a spoon, and don’t stuff too hard because the stuffing expands during cooking and it can break the skin!
Now sew the opening close with a trussing needle and white cotton string.
Prick a few small holes in the skin with a skewer or kitchen knife, to prevent it from bursting during the cooking.
Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in an oven-proof skillet or sauteuse pan.
Add the neck and brown well on all sides.
Transfer into the oven and roast for at least an hour, turning it and basting with the liquids from the cooking at least 4 times at regular intervals.
To test for doneness, prick with a skewer or toothpick and make sure the juices run clear.
https://dinnerinvenice.com/2011/09/20/stuffed-goose-neck-for-rosh-hashana/
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