Concealed identities and hidden truths are the markers of Purim, both in its exterior celebrations (the costumes) and in its deeper meaning.  Much like a Shakespearean Comedy of Errors, on the surface the Megillat Ester is deceivingly simple and seemingly random in its sequence of events. The protagonists are assimilated, “comfortable” Jews living in a foreign land (Persia), afraid to reveal their identity, and it is the only book in the Tanakh (Bible) that makes no reference to God. Purim is the plural of the Persian term Pur (lots), those lots that Haman had cast to determine the fate of the Jews – as if to imply that our fate is a game of chance. On the other hand, this story seemed so relevant to our sages that it was included in the Biblical Canon, while the heroism and miracle of Hanukkah were left out. One of the greatest Torah scholars of the Middle Ages, Rambam (Maimonides) even maintains in his Code of Jewish Law that in the Messianic Age “All the books of the prophets and the sacred writings in the Bible will be annulled, with the exception of the Book of Ester” (Hilkhot Megillah 2:18).
The story of Purim is not easy to decipher: adding to the tease is the fact that the Queen’s name itself comes from the word “saiter”, which means ‘conceal’, while the name of the book, Megillah, derives from the root “<em “mso-bidi-font-style:=”” style=””>galal”  – which means ‘to roll’, as we read it in a scroll, but also “to reveal”, as if to say that the very act of wrapping, concealing, was really meant to reveal a mysterious truth. Talking about concealments: even the Hebrew name for ‘World”, olam, comes from <em “mso-bidi-font-style:=”” style=””>alum: ‘hidden’. The traditional interpretation is that all these apparent riddles playing with the idea of concealment are meant to remind people that it’s up to them to discover the true miracle of God’s presence in apparently random events and everyday things. In this sense, Esther’s fasting and finding the courage to reveal her identity to the king and ask him to save her people – was just as big a miracle as the parting of the Red Sea.  The fascination with this motif was always so strong that Jewish culinary traditions all over the world have mirrored it in their holiday dishes, creating foods that hide (usually pleasant) surprises below the surface. One of our Italian answers?
Of course… ravioli! I am posting a version with ricotta both because I personally prefer dairy, and because there is a custom to skip meat on Purim, as the Talmud relates that that was what Queen Esther had to do in the palace of Ahasuerus, since she had no access to kosher food (her husband the king was not Jewish). However, if you prefer to serve meat just scroll down toward the end of the recipe, and see how to make a meat version.

Serves 4
Filling
1 lb swiss chards or a mix of greens
½ lb whole milk ricotta cheese
1 cup freshly grated parmigiano cheese
salt to taste
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
salt
nutmeg to taste
To dress:
¼ cup butter
a few sage leaves
freshly grated parmigiano to taste :
To make the fresh pasta
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
3 eggs

Discard the stalks or any white parts from the chard, and cook it for 2 or 3 minutes with a few tablespoons of water (you can also microwave it on high on a covered platter for 1 minute): drain, squeeze to remove excess liquid, and chop finely.

 Heat the olive oil in a pan, add a clove or two of garlic, cook for one minute, add the chard and a little salt and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Place the ricotta in a bowl, add the chard and the parmigiano, the nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste.
Add a walnut-size amount of ricotta and chard filling at regular spacings on your fresh pasta sheet. Press around the filling with your fingers and seal with the tongs of a fork.  Since it’s Purim, cut the ravioli with a fun-shaped cookie cutter leaving the filling in the center of each. You can also cut the dough into triangles (in honor of Haman’s Star-Treck ears) with a sharp knife.
Cook the ravioli for about 5 minutes in a large pot of salted boiling water; drain with a slotted spoon and serve drizzled with butter cooked for one minute with a few leaves of fresh sage, and grated parmigiano to taste.
*** to make the pasta, shape about 2 ½ cups of 00 or all-purpose flour into a well on your work surface; . add 3 eggs in the center and knead into a smooth dough. Allow torest for about 20 minutes covered in plastic wrap. Roll the dough into a thin sheet with a rolling pin or pasta machine.
*** for a meat version, replace the ricotta with about 8 ounces ground veal or beef (or a mix). While you are blanching the chard, heat a little oil in a pan and add a “soffritto” (“mirepoix” of minced 1/2 carrot, 1/2 onion, 1/2 celery stick); cook briefly, add the meat and little white wine, cook for a minute or two, add the chard and cook for a couple more minutes. Allow to cool, “tie” with a couple of eggs, flavor with nutmeg and little salt, and use this mix to fill the ravioli. Skip the parmigiano, and instead of dressing with butter, stick to a rich sugo d’arrosto (roast meat sauce). Buon Appetito!

see my article and recipe in  
The Jewish Daily Forward

According to the detailed descriptions in many Italian Purim songs from the 16th and 17th centuries, Purim at the time was quite a production! In particular, the wealthier Jews hosted over-the-top banquets, which included up to 30 courses, alternating savory and sweet dishes. But the highlight was always the desserts! Among the prettiest Purim sweets, perfect for gifting, are these almond paste-based confections popular in several cities, including Venice and Trieste. Almond paste was introduced to Northern and Central Italy by the Sephardic Jews fleeing from Spain, Portugal and Sicily, where they had a long tradition of making elaborate confections with it. These scrumptious sweets are easy to make as they don’t require cooking, and can be served in mini paper cups, or wrapped individually like candy.

MONTINI (Bicolor Cone-shaped confections)

• 1/2 pound granulated sugar
• 1/2 pound blanched almonds (this is the traditional version, but they also taste amazing made with pistachio)
• 4 tablespoons packaged egg whites, or more as needed (you could also just use 2 egg whites, which is what we do in Italy, where we like living dangerously…. But the packaged stuff is pasteurized, which makes it safer since we are not cooking it)
• 3.5 ounces bittersweet chocolate (1/2 cup chocolate chips)
• 1/3 cup candied orange or etrog peel

Make the almond paste base: place the blanched almonds and the sugar in your food processor with a blade attachment, and process until the almonds are ground and combined with the sugar. Add the egg whites and process more. Remove from the food processor and knead with your hands until it feels like a smooth dough. If even after kneadingthe paste is still too crumbly, add a little more egg white, but only 1 tablespoon at a time, because you don’t want the paste to get too sticky either.
Now melt the chocolate (you are supposed to do it in a bain-marie but I cheat and use the microwave). Divide the marzipan into two portions: one should be slightly larger than the other – roll this larger portion into cylinders about 1/3” or max ½” in diameter. Combine the slightly smaller portion to the melted chocolate, kneading until smooth. Use the chocolate portion to make more cylinders, of the same diameter as the white cylinders.
Attach the cylinders length-wise in couples, one white one dark, and cut into 1” long bicolor pieces. Shape them into cones with a flattened top, arrange on a platter, and decorate with pieces of candied fruit on top.
*You can also make plain almond Montini without the chocolate, and decorate them with multicolored sprinkles.

CHOCOLATE BON-BONS

• 1/2 pound granulated sugar
• 1/2 pound blanched almonds (this is the traditional version, but they also taste amazing made with pistachio)
• 4 tablespoons packaged (pasteurized) egg whites (or more as needed)

• 7 ounces bittersweet chocolate (1 cup chocolate chips)

Make the almond paste base: place the blanched almonds and the sugar in your food processor with a blade attachment, and process until the almonds are ground and combined with the sugar. Add the egg whites and process more. Remove from the food processor and knead with your hands until it feels like a smooth dough.  If even after kneading the paste is still too crumbly, add a little more egg white, but only 1 tablespoon at a time, because you don’t want the paste to get too sticky either. Melt the chocolate in a bain-marie or microwave. Using your hands, frorm small balls (1” diameter)  with the almond paste.
Dip the bon-bons in the melted chocolate using a fork. Arrange on a parchment-lined platter and allow to dry.

GIANDUJA BON_BONS

• ½ pound blanched/peeled hazelnuts
• ½ pound sugar
• 5 ounces bittersweet chocolate (¾ cup chocolate chips)
• 3 tablespoons packaged (pasteurized) egg whites, or more as needed
• 4 tablespoon sweet liqueur (hazelnut, cherry, or rum)

Grate the chocolate or grind it in a food processor with a metal blade. Grind the hazelnuts. Add sugar, egg white and liqueur to the hazelnuts and chocolate. If even after kneading the paste is still too crumbly, add a little more egg white, but only 1 tablespoon at a time, because you don’t want the paste to get too sticky either. Shape into small balls (1” diameter). Roll in the granulated sugar (or you could go with colorful sprinkles!). Et voila!

There is a rabbinic commandment stating that on Purim, one should drink until they can’t tell the difference between cursed is Haman and blessed is Mordecai. Instead of gobbling down glasses and glasses of wine, you can get a bit tipsy more efficiently with sweet Italian liqueurs, which also happen to pair really well with all the cookies and confectionery we end up inhaling on this gluttonous holiday. My paternal grandmother was a pro at making these, with lemons or rose petals, chocolate or coffee, and she called them “liquori da signorine” (“young ladies’  liqueurs”) as they were very sweet, which always cracked my dad up because they are actually as strong as a good scotch. Here is my favorite:

• 750 ml bottle of Everclear (grain alcohol) or high-end, unflavored vodka, or 50/50)
•  1 ½ cup blanched almonds
•  1 ½ cup sugar
•  1 stick vanilla or cinnamon, to taste (optional)
•  1 cup water

In your food processor, process the blanched almonds with the sugar. Mix this almond paste with the alcohol or vodka, pour into a jar or vase, add the vanilla (or cinnamon) stick, close/seal well, and set aside for two weeks. It’s best to shake the combination every couple of days. After three weeks, transfer the combination into a bottle or pitcher, straining it well with cheesecloth or a filter, and add the water. Shake well, close the bottle and allow to rest for two more weeks.  Once again, strain through a cheesecloth or filter, and your sweet almond liqueur is ready!